Once upon a time, long long ago (the early 1980s to be precise) a very particular type was identified in England - the ‘Sloane Ranger’. This was an upper class sort who drifted between their (or their generous friend’s) estate in Scotland and their (parents’) flat in a garden square in South Kensington or Chelsea. The female of the breed roamed Sloane Street dressed in a uniform consisting of pie-crust collared shirts, tweed skirts, flat shoes and Hermès silk scarves printed with something horsey. This was generally worn beneath a heavy waxed green Barbour (the staple of British farming and shooting wear) the better to protect them from the rain while they truffle-hunted debs’ delights, invitations to country house parties and prayed for a sighting of their icon, Lady Diana Spencer.
They were very, very uncool.
But how things change, dearest readers. You can imagine my shock a few weeks back when I was at the Chanel show in Paris and came upon Vanessa Friedman, fashion critic of The New York Times no less, perched in the front row, in a skinny black sweater and trousers and - wait - thrown over the ensemble was a shapeless dark green oilskin jacket. Concerned for the poor girl that she may have unwittingly morphed into an 80s Sloane, I asked her if she was wearing a Barbour. ‘Of course I am,’ she replied, looking thrilled with herself. I secretly felt sorry for her: she knew not what she wore. However, I soon ascertained that an American-Sloane Aesthetic movement was building: when I threw a dinner for Chris Black in London, he arrived in a dark suit and tie under a Barbour which he wore into the drawing room so everyone could see it before he took it off. Crumbs, I remember thinking, isn’t Chris supposed to be cool? When I asked him to explain he said, ‘I have six or seven Barbours because they are the best transitional jacket. The British country thing will always be romanticised because it’s so classy.’
I had to conclude that Sloane style, once at the bottom of the fashion food chain, is heading into Apex Predator territory, and it’s actually kind of glamorous. I mean, who doesn’t love a tweed jacket every day of the year? But reader beware: country chic in the city is one thing, looking like a country potato in town quite another.
Forthwith, How To Dress Sloane Now:
Channel a character from a Sloane children’s book:
A scarf is perhaps the quickest, fastest Sloane ingredient that can be added to any outfit. Inspirations range from Rupert Bear, who was never without his woolly yellow scarf, to The Railway Children’s iconic berets and scarves. The late Queen, who wore silk scarves printed with things like pheasants or wild flowers, defined the look for the nation for decades. Burberry has both bases covered in terms of British scarf chic, woolly or silk, and Kujten is the place for twenty-something’s to find a cashmere neckerchief with prep connotations. For a très BCBG version, Celine’s silk squares are fabulous, as reported in Lauren Sherman’s Line Sheet newsletter but possibly too uber-trendy to be considered strictly Sloane.
Carry unshowy handbags:
Ideally, a purse should be monogrammed with one’s initials, which is why the Marina Raphael Alex bag in burgundy leather, below right, is ideal, as the plain clasp is the perfect spot for engraving. The black purse, bottom right, monogrammed with an ‘M’ for Margaret, Duchess of Argyll, was custom made by Hermès in the 1960s and is now carried by her granddaughter Alice Manners. The only logo-laden bags a Sloane can cart between town and country with no shame, as long as they are old, are a Chanel 2.55 or a Birkin.
Shop like a rural duchess:
The late Deborah Mitford, who became the Duchess of Devonshire when she married, was considered one of the chicest women in the world. But in her heart she was Sloane through and through: when asked where she bought her clothes she simply replied ‘at country fairs’. She wore tweed in town, plain flannel skirts and nice gloves. Jade Holland Cooper recently made me this custom brown tweed suit, below left, at her Cotswolds atelier which I wore to Cheltenham Races, where she had a huge shop all week selling everything from tweed skirts to high tech riding breeches. I paired it with men’s Crockett and Jones brogues and a black watch tartan shirt from With Nothing Underneath. I’d wear it in London or Paris with my red Chanel 2.55 and my cream calfskin Scarosso loafers.
Embrace Flatties:
As a child I was taught to fear ‘the woman in comfortable shoes’ - the phrase brought to mind frowning headmistresses, stern receptionists and over-exhausted hospital matrons, none of whom exuded glamour. Now, not so much: I think loafers are incredibly classy and love a lace-up from Churches Shoes. I’ve just fallen in love with these Jennifer Chamandi black flats, below, which look wonderful with these tartan socks from Tabio in Paris. Their very frumpiness is what makes them chic.
Update the raincoat, or get a ‘New’ Old One:
When I was in Paris with Ursula last month, we both test-drove Fairfax and Favor’s lightly waxed coats. Ursula loved the longer version, in a beautiful bottle green, as the narrow cut is very flattering, and the tan summery short jacket I wore with jeans was modern-looking and a nice light weight for spring showers.
In terms of a new Barbour, I recommend the Men’s Beaufort Waxed Jacket as it has that slouchy oversized feel, and the men’s just look a bit cooler than the women’s. For the die-hard old-schoolers, its all about a pre-adored Barbour, obvs. Here, a brief tour of vintage Barbours, compiled by my wonderful intern, Zeynep Baser:
1. The It Girl
Barbour x Alexa Chung. The collaboration speaks for itself. Effortlessly cool, with just the right hint of youthful edge.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326970146288
2. The Heritage Classic
Has survived a number of inheritance games and, crucially, can always be rewaxed.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/358420812878
3. The Fashionably Fitted
Technically countryside, but somehow always perfectly fitted. Worn with intention, and a defined waist.
4. The Timeless Favourite
A Barbour that has seen it all: weekends, missed trains, questionable decisions made in very good outfits.
5. The Scandi Reinvention
Clean lines, and just directional enough to feel modern. Countryside á la Copenhagen.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/287205412206
Thank you all so much for reading this. Have a lovely week and let me know how you enjoyed this story!
X PLUM
P.S. The wonderful pictures in Paris in this story were shot by the incredible Noa. Thank you Noa - it was a joy to work with you.
P.P.S. Thank you my darling daughter Ursula for the fun times in Paris with you. You mean everything to me: Ursula’s Substack.
P.P.S. See Peter York’s brilliant The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook for the full definition of the OG Sloane.
brilliant.....and now the woman in comfortable shoes is us! 😆
As always, Plum, this was a delightful read. I always look for your posts. You are a timeless beauty and I need as well as appreciation your insights.