Confessions of a Scarfaholic

An Intern Speaks Her Truth

Dearest readers,

While I am off on a little jaunt in Provence - which I will share with you all very, very soon - my dear intern Zeynep has stepped in with a delicious essay (this post is free) about her certifiable obsession with scarves. This is a girl who does not show up to a zoom without some sort of silk square immaculately knotted around her neck every single time. When I eventually asked her why this was she said ‘scarves are my emotional support mechanism’. I said, ‘Zeynep get ya pen out, that’s a story.’ Here it is…

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It would not be an exaggeration to say that I rely on a scarf almost as much as I would any therapist. Tying my scarf is a tiny ritual of self-construction that boosts my confidence the second I do it.

Some people have lucky jewellery, others rely on a particular lipstick before a difficult evening. I too have my own make-up and accessory favourites, but my pièce de résistance happens to be a piece of silk (or cashmere depending on the season) arranged around my neck to pull an outfit - and myself - together.

Over years of rigorous field research, I can conclude that the scarf one chooses can lift the spirits quicker than a glug of Ruinart.

Here, I present my scarves as multiple personality types:

1. The Slightly Neurotic Double Knot

These two Dior Mitzahs have become my signature ‘Slightly Neurotic Double Knot’ scarves. Sadly, they’ve since vanished from the shelves, but ‘The Floral Garden’ and ‘The Lilac Bouquet’ make excellent successors.

Despite being rather impractical at times, the ‘Slightly Neurotic Double Knot’ remains my favourite.

I worry far too much about the ends being precisely the right length and the print showing exactly the right amount. The knot must, of course, look effortless. Unfortunately, like most things that carry the illusion of nonchalant chic, achieving this can take some effort.

I am increasingly suspicious that true nonchalance has never existed.

There is a very fine line between perfectly asymmetrical and simply wrong, and I seem determined to find it every time. A millimetre can be the difference between chic and starting again. I have never met a scarf end I did not feel compelled to adjust.

Some people practise mindfulness, I prefer tying the same knot around seventeen times.

Though I am usually the sort of person who arrives promptly, if not offensively early, if I am late once in a blue moon, check whether I am wearing a double-knotted scarf. Beauty is pain. Occasionally, it can also cause poor time management.

The final result, however, is completely worth the emotional and nervous damage the process may cause. The double knot is wonderfully secure, durable and actually quite warm around the neck. It is perfect for a day of shopping, running around town or rushing to class, once you have finally managed to leave the house.

I find that the ‘Slightly Neurotic Double Knot’ thrives when the scarf is slightly longer than the classic twilly format, which is why my favourite for this purpose is the Dior Mitzah.

The tricky thing about Dior Mitzah scarves is that so many unique variations appear throughout the year. If you find a print you adore, I suggest buying it without waiting, as it may simply disappear.

Mine in these photos are from the 2025 seasonal collections and the limited-edition ABCDior Initial series, which was only available at a few boutiques. (You may still find some in certain stores if you’re lucky.)

For the ‘Z’ scarf, like any sensible Dior Mitzah enthusiast I travelled from the wilderness of St Andrews to the Bond Street flagship for the sole purpose of buying it. I realise this may sound less like shopping and more like a clinically observable condition.

2. The Good Girl Gone Silk

The classic Hermès Twilly: perfect for the ‘Good Girl Gone Silk’ look. This Holland Cooper version creates a very similar effect.

I like to think of this as the scarf equivalent of following the dress code and then finding a loophole. It almost always manages to bring a smile to one’s face, whether that is method acting or the subconscious signalling a state of content.

My favourite for this look is the classic Hermès twilly. Its length allows it to fall somewhere between a neckerchief and a necktie, creating an almost invisible reference to a preppy school uniform. The uniform reference is there, but so is the plausible deniability. One of my friends once joked about how Hermès is just as bookish as it is horse-y and I couldn’t agree more, I think it thrives when paired with preppy-esque codes.

Naturally, the good girl gone silk is exactly what the name might suggest, it is for those moments when your outfit options are restricted, but you still refuse to wear a bland look.

The rebellious attributes of silk remain up for debate, but it certainly adds a trace of visual interest.

I love wearing a short twilly with knits and shirts, where it somehow manages to look both playful and formal. It is prim and proper, but only technically, and as much as you want it to be. The overall effect suggests impeccable manners with just enough silk-based accessorising.

One might look as though one is about to hand in an assignment early. Whether one has actually done the required reading is, naturally, a separate matter. However, looking the part may be a lifesaver at times. Confidence, much like personal style, can be accessorised.

3. The ‘Add One Thing Before You Leave the House’

I have worn these Dior sunglasses almost as much as my Emotional Support Scarves this summer, which is saying something.

With the greatest respect to the minimalist intentions behind Coco Chanel’s famous advice, sometimes subtraction is simply not the answer.

The advice may be to remove one thing before leaving the house, but I have tested the opposite theory extensively, and the success rate with basics is alarmingly high. Too high to ignore.

I have always felt that minimalism is a beautiful concept, particularly on other people. Some outfits may thrive on restraint, others simply need a floral twilly.

This is my favourite approach when I am in a rush and a neutral outfit needs rescuing. A small piece of patterned silk can be the single difference between an intentional look and one that makes you wonder, halfway through the day, why you did not try slightly harder.

Weirdly enough, it also gives the illusion that you have your life together even when your schedule suggests you have not had time to sit down for a coffee. I love wearing colour and print, but there are days when one does not necessarily want to commit to the entire look. This is where the scarf performs its greatest public service.

Paired with some statement earrings, a scarf can manage to make you look as though you have done the required reading, taken an early-morning walk, and are caffeinated just enough to bear academia during a very gloomy day. A neutral outfit is, after all, merely a blank canvas awaiting (sometimes irresponsible) accessorising.

What fascinates me most is that the scarf can be tied in exactly the same way as the ‘Good Girl Gone Silk’ and yet communicate something entirely different. The scarf matters, but the context matters just as much. Change the knit, the trousers, and the shoes, suddenly the same knot belongs to an entirely different character.

The equation is simple: basics plus silk equals evidence of personality. This is one of the only equations I can confidently do.

For this, I love a fun print. One of my favourites is a Dior Mitzah from 2025 called ‘The Lucky Star’ which has the most incredible star pattern with a swirly butterfly motif inside; another is a particularly cheerful Gucci scarf, in the signature floral print.

4. The Fashion Footnote

I love pairing this Prada neckerchief with a cable-knit jumper, and this Dior piece has quietly become my most-worn scarf — it seems to work with absolutely everything.

The miscellaneous category for those — like me — who consider the archive a perfectly reasonable source of outfit inspiration.

As an archival-fashion enthusiast, I find myself returning to this category quite often. I consider it a very chic form of academic referencing: I love slipping tiny fashion references into an outfit whilst fully expecting no one else to notice them. If no one does, the scarf is still pretty. If someone does, however, it makes my day.

The beauty of a niche reference is that no one can accuse you of trying too hard if no one understands it.

I find that when one is stuck between essays, readings, classes, meetings and lingering responsibilities, life can feel, at times, rather boring; therefore, the highlight of one’s day can very much be the outfit (don’t ask how I know). When everything else feels suffocatingly monotonous, getting dressed can be much more entertaining when you occasionally treat it like a private joke with fashion history.

This might mean wearing Prada to watch The Devil Wears Prada, or tying a Dior Mitzah in a way inspired by Jonathan Anderson’s scarf styling on the day of one of his Dior shows. I particularly love the way he styles silk scarves almost like ties, bringing a preppy edge to something traditionally feminine.

I do not expect anyone to notice these details. In fact, that is partly the point. But if someone does, there is the immediate satisfaction of realising that you are both in on the same tiny fashion footnote.

There is also something particularly reassuring about wearing one of these references on an otherwise boring day. When it is pouring with rain, you are walking to a morning class and you would prefer to be almost anywhere else, ideally within walking distance of Place Vendôme, a piece of silk around your neck can become the thread holding your sanity intact.

P.S. If an Emotional Support Scarf occupies your thoughts for more than a week, I generally consider that medical clearance to buy it. Limited editions rarely reward hesitation. This Clover scarf and this Hermès square are currently testing my own self-control.